View Full Version : Cabin done, err not really
Coooleeey
August-28th-2006, 08:16 AM
So I posted last week about the roof on our cabin. Here are some completed pics. It looks really nice but I feel it is poorly constructed, mainly the roof. All they did was nail the metal to the roof trusses. Its going to be loud and more than likely leak like a mofo.
Look at the sides, they didn't actually seal the cabin so animals and insects will be all over the place. Any suggestions on how I can seal this place off? Just for background I haven't been involved really with this portion of the project, I handled the concrete slab and subfloor...which are good!
Thanks in advance peeps!
MSJHWT
August-28th-2006, 09:43 AM
Cabin looks really cool, but you're right if it rains it's going to be SUPER loud. I'm of no help with what to do about the gap they left in the roof, but maybe call them back and let them know this isn't what you wanted/expected and see if they're willing to work with you?
Pete
August-28th-2006, 09:58 AM
If it was me, I would sseal the roof exterior, and install a ceeling inside. You can screen the gap where the roof and wells meet, and then put up a ceeling. That will keep the noise down when it does rain, but more importantly, will insulate the building. A tin roof will bake you like an oven in the summer, and freeze you na na's off in the winter.
Coooleeey
August-28th-2006, 10:20 AM
We are already calling the builder and worse case scenario setting up another crew to come out and finish up.
Pete - I have heard your suggestion before. So you think we should caulk or seal from teh inside, then put in insulation and plywood on the inside? What do you mean screen the gap? We want to make sure no animals or insects can get into the place. The cabin is in the mountains so the longer its open the more the chances of field mice owning the place
DeanCollins
August-28th-2006, 10:26 AM
Cooley,
the metal roof should be fastened with specialty hex screws with a built in washer and neoprene gasket on top of the lap seems (not nails). You'll need to install 24" insulation bats with the paper back to staple to bottom of rafters. looks like 2x6 rafters so you might get high density R-30 to fit in there. after that I would staple 2mil plastic for a vapor barrier to prevent condensation. then finish off the ceiling with tongue and grove knotty pine 1x6, but don't forget your rough in wiring. Have you gone there in the rain to see if the roof leaks?
looks like the facia is on but no sofits. that's the open area up under the roof eve that you're refering to. you can install two 1x6's or 1x8's length wise attached to the bottom of the rafter tails with a 3-4" gap down the middle. then install perforated vinyl vent material so the roof can breathe.
it's in the sofit siding section of home depot.
Coooleeey
August-28th-2006, 10:51 AM
Cooley,
the metal roof should be fastened with specialty hex screws with a built in washer and neoprene gasket on top of the lap seems (not nails). You'll need to install 24" insulation bats with the paper back to staple to bottom of rafters. looks like 2x6 rafters so you might get high density R-30 to fit in there. after that I would staple 2mil plastic for a vapor barrier to prevent condensation. then finish off the ceiling with tongue and grove knotty pine 1x6, but don't forget your rough in wiring. Have you gone there in the rain to see if the roof leaks?
looks like the facia is on but no sofits. that's the open area up under the roof eve that you're refering to. you can install two 1x6's or 1x8's length wise attached to the bottom of the rafter tails with a 3-4" gap down the middle. then install perforated vinyl vent material so the roof can breathe.
it's in the sofit siding section of home depot.
So this isn't the end of the world type deal :D
Paper back means paper towards the inside of the house? So standard R-30 pink panther stuff can be placed directly onto the inside of the roof touching the metal, then vapor barrier, and lastly tongue and groove? I'll do more research but will pick your mind all day if possible :D
I am heading up there to see the "finished product" this weekend. I'm not saying it leaks, but its raining there right now I believe so we'll see.
How effective is perforated vinyl venting with keeping bugs out? I don't mind roughing it but women and children will be there so you know how that is.
DeanCollins
August-28th-2006, 11:14 AM
So this isn't the end of the world type deal :D
Paper back means paper towards the inside of the house? So standard R-30 pink panther stuff can be placed directly onto the inside of the roof touching the metal, then vapor barrier, and lastly tongue and groove? I'll do more research but will pick your mind all day if possible :D
I am heading up there to see the "finished product" this weekend. I'm not saying it leaks, but its raining there right now I believe so we'll see.
How effective is perforated vinyl venting with keeping bugs out? I don't mind roughing it but women and children will be there so you know how that is.
I don't think regular R-30 fits into a 6" space. If you compress the insulation it loses it's effectiveness by lessining the air space. High density
R-30 is made to go in smaller spaces.
the vinyl venting is an insect and rodent screen. the holes are only about 1/8". my email address is in my profile.
Coooleeey
August-28th-2006, 12:06 PM
I don't think regular R-30 fits into a 6" space. If you compress the insulation it loses it's effectiveness by lessining the air space. High density
R-30 is made to go in smaller spaces.
the vinyl venting is an insect and rodent screen. the holes are only about 1/8". my email address is in my profile.
Hey man, I can't find your E-mail and your PM box is full :D
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