The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

[SkinnedAussie]

Starter +1

Go to a wrecking yard and pick up a similar starter, install it, and see what happens.

Just make sure you disconnect the battery when doing so.

[Mark The Homer]

My thoughts...

I think that the starter is going bad. It sounds like the starter is drawing an excessive amount of amperage from the battery, explaining the lights going out. The "single click" is a fairly standard failure as far as starters are concerned.

Starter +1

Go to a wrecking yard and pick up a similar starter, install it, and see what happens.

Just make sure you disconnect the battery when doing so.

Yeah, I think you're right.

I'll double check the new battery and make sure it's ok.

It seems to me it can't be the relay.

I've never put in a starter in a little tiny japanese car before. I bet it would be a PITA.

Thanks guys.

[twa]

Corrosion inside the cable can cause that as well.

Look at the connections and the insulation around them(swelling)

You can have the starter bench tested free at most parts stores before replacing it.

[SpringfieldSkins]

Yeah, I think you're right.

I'll double check the new battery and make sure it's ok.

It seems to me it can't be the relay.

I've never put in a starter in a little tiny japanese car before. I bet it would be a PITA.

Thanks guys.

Replacing the starter on those cars is easier than you would think. That one may be on the back of the engine. I can't recall.

Corrosion inside the cable can cause that as well.

Look at the connections and the insulation around them(swelling)

You can have the starter bench tested free at most parts stores before replacing it.

I bet it's the starter. Just sayin'.

[twa]

I bet it's the starter. Just sayin'.

Yeah,sure take the easy choice

No votes for a separated post on the battery?

[Mark The Homer]

Corrosion inside the cable can cause that as well.

Look at the connections and the insulation around them(swelling)

You can have the starter bench tested free at most parts stores before replacing it.

Hmm.

You're referring to the connections at the starter right? The connections at the battery look real clean.

I thought of corrosion on the cable too. Especially since this car was

1) in a car wreck,
2) declared totaled,
3) sat for about a year,
4) salvaged,
5) repaired, and
6) sold to me.

I'll check out the cable.

Thanks!!!

[SpringfieldSkins]

Hmm.

Have fun... but I'd bet he's wrong. Good luck to you Mark.

[DeanCollins]

mark you've already bought the battery, might as well get a new starter and cables and complete the trifecta.

[twa]

Isn't that sound mechanic theory?

Replace everything till it's fixed

Ya ever get to that pitman arm DC ?

[heyholetsgogrant]

!!!!PROBLEM!!!!

During the winter my 2001 Volvo S40 takes around 10 cranks to turn over. I figured it was the battery (battery still had some juice), I replaced it. The problem still happens even after replacing the battery. What I have noticed is that when I put my foot on the gas while trying to start the car, the car starts, however when I take my foot off the gas the engine shuts off. However, when it is warm outside the car starts right away, usually on the first start. I brought the car into the shop to have a look at it, where they found nothing even after a diagnostic. Does anyone know what it could be? I am dreading bringing it to a Volvo dealer . Last time I went to a Volvo dealer they tired charging me $800 for a turbo leak.

BTW this video reminds me of my car in the winter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-E8W...m=PL&index=102

Thanks for the help guys!

[SpringfieldSkins]

!!!!PROBLEM!!!!

During the winter my 2001 Volvo S40 takes around 10 cranks to turn over. I figured it was the battery (battery still had some juice), I replaced it. The problem still happens even after replacing the battery. What I have noticed is that when I put my foot on the gas while trying to start the car, the car starts, however when I take my foot off the gas the engine shuts off. However, when it is warm outside the car starts right away, usually on the first start. I brought the car into the shop to have a look at it, where they found nothing even after a diagnostic. Does anyone know what it could be? I am dreading bringing it to a Volvo dealer . Last time I went to a Volvo dealer they tired charging me $800 for a turbo leak.

BTW this video reminds me of my car in the winter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-E8W...m=PL&index=102

Thanks for the help guys!

I have two thoughts on your problem. First thought is a fuel problem. Either a failing fuel pump that takes too long to build up pressure or a leaking fuel injector that leaks into the combustion chamber with the engine off.

Second thought would be a false air leak. False are leak meaning that there is a vacuum hose or something else that is letting air into the intake after the MAF sensor (or what ever air metering device).

I'll try and check around a little bit and get back to you with any other possible solutions.

[SpringfieldSkins]

I saw your thread... I'll add more here anyhow.


Fuel pressure regulator is also a possible problem. I'd check for fuel first, check the pressure both with the key on and then when cranking. If fuel is OK, I'd look for a false air leak or possible bad MAF (mass air flow) sensor.


That's all I've got for now.

[heyholetsgogrant]

I saw your thread... I'll add more here anyhow.


Fuel pressure regulator is also a possible problem. I'd check for fuel first, check the pressure both with the key on and then when cranking. If fuel is OK, I'd look for a false air leak or possible bad MAF (mass air flow) sensor.


That's all I've got for now.

Thanks Springfield, through my research, that's what I am leaning towards. The big problem I have is lots of trial and error attached to it, therefore causing potential build of repair costs.

[SpringfieldSkins]

Thanks Springfield, through my research, that's what I am leaning towards. The big problem I have is lots of trial and error attached to it, therefore causing potential build of repair costs.

It can be expensive if you don't know how to properly diagnose it and end up just replacing parts to try and solve your problem. Ask MTH, I'm sure he's got some experience firing the old "parts gun".

This problem is especially compounded by the fact that you're working on a Volvo. Having a fuel pressure gauge is essential to properly diagnosing this situation.




Wondering how MTH's problem ended up by the way.

[DCsportsfan53]

!!!!PROBLEM!!!!

During the winter my 2001 Volvo S40 takes around 10 cranks to turn over. I figured it was the battery (battery still had some juice), I replaced it. The problem still happens even after replacing the battery. What I have noticed is that when I put my foot on the gas while trying to start the car, the car starts, however when I take my foot off the gas the engine shuts off. However, when it is warm outside the car starts right away, usually on the first start. I brought the car into the shop to have a look at it, where they found nothing even after a diagnostic. Does anyone know what it could be? I am dreading bringing it to a Volvo dealer . Last time I went to a Volvo dealer they tired charging me $800 for a turbo leak.

BTW this video reminds me of my car in the winter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-E8W...m=PL&index=102

Thanks for the help guys!

Not sure what fuel management system Volvo uses but with VWs this type of problem can often be related to a coolant temperature sensor. I think Volvo uses Bosch stuff still, not really sure, but many systems use the coolant temp sensor to set mixture for cold start situations as the O2 sensor isn't hot enough to give a reading yet. If that sensor is failing it can report an innacurate coolant temp to the ECM and cause rough starts.