The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

[twa]

2003 Mitsubishi Montero - 61,000 miles

After getting an oil change and tire rotation at Tires Plus, I was told that my rear shocks are leaking and it is causing uneven tire wear. It was recommended that I replace my front and rear shocks. Total cost out the door is $576.

1. At 60,000 miles do shocks normally need to be replaced? I'll plan on keeping the car for another 20,000 miles or so.

2. Assuming the shocks (all 4?) need to be replaced, is $576 a fair price?

Thanks in advance.

Seems a bit high,but not unreasonable for Struts(especially if that includes alignment)

I think they should last longer than that,but it depends on the abuse/driving style

[Southtown]

Seems a bit high,but not unreasonable for Struts(especially if that includes alignment)

I think they should last longer than that,but it depends on the abuse/driving style

Thanks for the info. I does not include alignment, that is $79 extra. I drive about 10,000 miles a year...mostly highway.

[twa]

Thanks for the info. I does not include alignment, that is $79 extra. I drive about 10,000 miles a year...mostly highway.

I would check around on prices and get another opinion/price,but any leaking certainly need replaced.

I would expect 100k miles or more from struts if not abused.

[Chump Bailey]

What is your opinion on transmission and engine flushes?

[SpringfieldSkins]

What is your opinion on transmission and engine flushes?

I'm all for them.

(from page 2)

I much perfer a flush over a drain and fill. Reason being, the flush gets 100% of the fluid out, and with a great cleaner pre-flush much of the dirt as well. My main issue with a drain and fill is that it doesn't remove all of the transmission fluid.

Transmission fluid is a detergent, meaning one of it's purposes is to clean. Anyone remember the old "fix" of adding a drop of ATF into the combustion chamber when changing spark plugs to clean the combustion chamber and help seal the piston rings? ATF being a detergent is the reason that one worked.

When you don't replace 100% of the ATF, you have a couple of quarts of old fluid beaing cleaned with the new fluid. If that fluid was pretty dark to begin with, the fluid will be back to the same within several thousand miles.

The only case I would even think of recommending a drain and fill over a flush would be if a vehicle had transmission problems and the fluid was black. Likely that car will need a transmission anyhow, but that would be the least entrusive route to take given the circumstances.

[SpringfieldSkins]

The job's done. One of DLSF's motorhead friends came over and did it for tacos. He disconnected an end of the top radiator hose and pinned it out of the way. He took out the plastic fan assy on the right side. He unplugged that grey electronic plug thing way on the right side of the photo. From there he was able to reach in and feel the top bolt. And remove it. The bolt was coming at the starter from the opposite direction as the bottom bolt So the bolt head was way over on the right. Plus he changed the oil and fixed the plaster bumper corner that DLSF managed to rip loose last winter. The whole thing took him about 2 hours plus driving time to Advanced Auto.

I gave him $100 cash. And tacos.

Thanks for your help, guys!

Good one Mark. I'm glad the motorheads got some tacos out of the deal.

[Titaw]

Do I have any concern now?

2007 Chrysler Seabring 79,000 miles

In March I had a serious condition where the car was idling rough and the check engine light was flashing. I took it to the dealership to get the scheduled maintenance and the mechanic told me that the engine was sludged up, I was losing compression in cylander #3 and I was getting blow by. He also told me that due to neglegence it would not be covered under warranty and it could cost anywhere from $400-$4,000 to repair. Well, I asked what could I do to get it to be covered under warranty. They told me to flush and change the oil at least 3 or 4 times. I picked up the Gunk Motor Flush, Gumount Complete Fuekl System Cleaner, Synthetic Blend oil, FRAM High Mileage Oil Filter and BG MOA.

I have changed to Penzoil's full synthetic with cleaning agents and use only Shell gasoline. Now the car runs like a dream, no rough idle, no check engine light and no blow by. Everytime I change the oil I use the motor flush first, change the oil, add BG MOA. I also use the Gumount CFSC at this time as well. I hope I have dodged a bullet that could have been extremely expensive, but I got insanely lucky.

[Chump Bailey]

I'm all for them.

(from page 2)

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

[twa]

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

I don't use them unless there is a specific problem(usually caused by improper maintenance/abuse) and see no need if the vehicle is not abused/neglected.

But I'm also cheap and lazy...but it works for me

[DCsportsfan53]

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

Yeah, I agree. Especially on the engine flush part. First of all, if you're reasonable about oil changes your engine should never need a flush and most of the time an engine flush will result in leaky seals throughout the engine and sometimes unexpected failures.

[Brad_Edwards_Fan]

The exhaust probably smells very heavy of fuel because it's running super rich. There could be a fuel control problem causing that. If I remember correctly, there is a thermostatic switch on the throttle that often fails causing a super rich running condition.

The converter is not your problem. When converters fail, they don't smell like fuel and the smell usually gets worse the hotter it gets. When converters fail, they smell like sulfur (or rotten eggs).

By corroded, I assume you mean rusted. It sounds like you are talking about the heat shield around the converter. There is no problem there, the rust is normal. You can try and replace the shields or remove them.


Also, is the Check Engine Light on? If it isn't, you can certainly rule out a failed converter. If it is, I'd scan for codes and begin your diagnosis there.

Hey thanks for the help... no check engine light on. And yes, it is just the very outer shield that is rusted out. I was thinking of just putting a couple of pipe clamps around it to take care of the rattleing. Is that a suitable solution to that problem?

[sideshow24]

2002 Subaru Outback. Small leak from a freeze plug is dripping onto the exhaust. I'm not losing much coolant at all but the smell is pretty bad once I stop the car. What are your thoughts on block sealer? Is it effective?

A few I looked at require flushing the coolant system completely since coolant interferes with the sealing process. Is draining the radiator and overflow tank and flushing them with water enough or do I need to do more?

[SpringfieldSkins]

Do I have any concern now?

2007 Chrysler Seabring 79,000 miles

In March I had a serious condition where the car was idling rough and the check engine light was flashing. I took it to the dealership to get the scheduled maintenance and the mechanic told me that the engine was sludged up, I was losing compression in cylander #3 and I was getting blow by. He also told me that due to neglegence it would not be covered under warranty and it could cost anywhere from $400-$4,000 to repair. Well, I asked what could I do to get it to be covered under warranty. They told me to flush and change the oil at least 3 or 4 times. I picked up the Gunk Motor Flush, Gumount Complete Fuekl System Cleaner, Synthetic Blend oil, FRAM High Mileage Oil Filter and BG MOA.

I have changed to Penzoil's full synthetic with cleaning agents and use only Shell gasoline. Now the car runs like a dream, no rough idle, no check engine light and no blow by. Everytime I change the oil I use the motor flush first, change the oil, add BG MOA. I also use the Gumount CFSC at this time as well. I hope I have dodged a bullet that could have been extremely expensive, but I got insanely lucky.

If that is working for you currently, I'd stick with it.

The only reason a CEL (check engine light) would come on flashing is because of a misfire condition. In most cases a misfire condition is caused by a failed ignition component (spark plug, ignition wire, ignition coil, etc.). A very common failure on those cars are the ignition coils. They have a coil over each individual plug. I admit that I was rather surprised when you said that oil was the issue (and I wouldn't be surprised if it comes back in the form of a bad coil).

[SpringfieldSkins]

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

I don't use them unless there is a specific problem(usually caused by improper maintenance/abuse) and see no need if the vehicle is not abused/neglected.

But I'm also cheap and lazy...but it works for me

I have heard several times that new Honda transmissions should not be flushed. I can say from first hand experience that we have flushed hundreds of newer Honda transmissions (that require ATF Z1) with out one problem. We have many return customers who have never had a problem with thier transmissions.

My opinion on Honda's is that they can be flushed, but they have to be flushed using Honda ATF Z1. Their transmission fluid is incompatible with standard Mercon/Dexron ATF.

Yeah, I agree. Especially on the engine flush part. First of all, if you're reasonable about oil changes your engine should never need a flush and most of the time an engine flush will result in leaky seals throughout the engine and sometimes unexpected failures.

As far as engine flushes... I've seen them clean out entirely nasty crank cases (4.0L Jeep comes to mind) very well. I don't think that they are necessary at all as long as the oil is changed regularly.

[big#44]

alright. last week i put some eibach springs on my car. everything was fine, smooth ride no weird noises until today. going over certain bumps i get this horrible clunk from the front end. the thing is it isnt on every bump only some. and it seems to happen more often when the front drivers wheel hits the bump. i havent had a chance to jack the car up and look around yet, but i figured id ask you just to get your thoughts. i made sure to install the springs sitting the same way as the OEM springs, but could they not be sitting right and making the noise? i should also mention that all bolts were torqued down correctly so i dont think its that but im going to check again.