The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

[skinfan2k]

I just got an estimate that I need to replace my head gasket and it will cost about 1300 to repair for a 02 corolla? It seems like alot

[twa]

I just got an estimate that I need to replace my head gasket and it will cost about 1300 to repair for a 02 corolla? It seems like alot

is that simply for a gasket or a head job

You can of course get a lower price by shopping around,but cutting costs also means cutting quality in many cases.

Make sure of the mechanics reputation.

[Mickalino]

Lately, my car has been stalling right after it starts.

It doesn't happen frequently, however before these episodes began, it has never stalled before, at all.

It only happens right after it starts initially, not after driving around. But it starts right up, the 2nd time, after each episode where it stalls. And never needs a jump. And the actual starting the car is never a problem, just that it dies after it starts at those times.

I'm wondering if it's a signal that something is gradually about to go bad, and possibly leave me stranded somewhere. Does it sound like the alternator or battery about to die ?

It's a 97 Buick LeSabre.

[twa]

Doesn't sound like the alternator or battery Mick

If it just does it when the engine is cold,I'd say the spark plugs are getting fouled/old...pull one and look

Could be a number of things though

[Mickalino]

Thanks, I'll start by changin the plugs

[twa]

Thanks, I'll start by changin the plugs

Check one first,but if ya ain't changed em in a yr or so you might as well.

[Mickalino]

Yea, it's been a little over a year....And I'm not very good at tellin the difference between a good plug and a bad one, so if it's ever in question, I'll change it.

[SpringfieldSkins]

Lately, my car has been stalling right after it starts.

It doesn't happen frequently, however before these episodes began, it has never stalled before, at all.

It only happens right after it starts initially, not after driving around. But it starts right up, the 2nd time, after each episode where it stalls. And never needs a jump. And the actual starting the car is never a problem, just that it dies after it starts at those times.

I'm wondering if it's a signal that something is gradually about to go bad, and possibly leave me stranded somewhere. Does it sound like the alternator or battery about to die ?

It's a 97 Buick LeSabre.

My opinion would differ from TWA's. In my opinion, spark plugs are usually bad or not. This means that there will either be a misfire or not. In your case though, it isn't misfiring, it's just dying out.

My first two thoughts would be either MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor or IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. The MAF sensor is what detects the air flowing into the engine through the intake. Often times, when the MAF sensors are just starting to fail, it will exhibit these symptoms. A MAF sensor failure is also fairly common on the LeSabre. Another thought would be an IAC that is gummed up. The IAC is there to adjust the idle as needed when the throttle plate is completely closed (such as start up). If the IAC is gummed up, it will not allow the proper air flow and thus cause the car to stall.

[Mickalino]

That's interesting because the sensor was recommended servicing to me, for a different problem (maybe it exhibits multiple symptoms)

A couple years ago, I was having problems of the car losing power at high speeds. When I'd go over 70, it would lose power, to where it would gradually slow down to 50, even while I'm gassing it. I took it to Auto Zone, for a free diagnostic, and one of the things that came up was the MAF sensor. They said all I needed to do was buy this special spray, and open up some hose and spray it in there. Does this sound like the correct way to deal with the MAF problem ?

If so, now I can't remember where the spray is supposed to be applied.
Could you tell me ?

[DieselPwr44]

A couple years ago, I was having problems of the car losing power at high speeds. When I'd go over 70, it would lose power, to where it would gradually slow down to 50, even while I'm gassing it. I took it to Auto Zone, for a free diagnostic, and one of the things that came up was the MAF sensor. They said all I needed to do was buy this special spray, and open up some hose and spray it in there. Does this sound like the correct way to deal with the MAF problem ?

Mick,

Your high speed problem is probably that Mass Air Flow sensor.

Read up on it here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/maf_sensors.htm

Often, a dirty or faulty MAF sensor will cause the engine to set a LEAN code and turn on the Check Engine Light. If the MAF sensor wire becomes dirty or is contaminated with oil (from an aftermarket reusable air filter), it will be slow to react to changes in airflow. This may cause the MAF sensor to under-report airflow, causing the engine to run lean.

[Mickalino]

Mick,

Your high speed problem is probably that Mass Air Flow sensor.

Read up on it here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/maf_sensors.htm

I guess that confirms it - since that was what the Auto Zone Diagnostic tool was indicating I needed. Thank you for reinforcing the solution.

[big#44]

ive got a leaking drive boot on the cv joint on the front passenger side. i looked for a tear or hole and i couldnt find anything, yet theres grease all over the strut, brakes and inside of the wheel. im gonna stop by the dealer first thing in the morning because i know if it goes to long it could damage the cv joint, if it isnt already. my question, any idea how much they'll charge me to put a new boot on? how about a new cv joint/drive axle? how hard is it to put a new axle on if i wanted to do it myself, or i should say is there alot that i could screw up?

[SpringfieldSkins]

ive got a leaking drive boot on the cv joint on the front passenger side. i looked for a tear or hole and i couldnt find anything, yet theres grease all over the strut, brakes and inside of the wheel. im gonna stop by the dealer first thing in the morning because i know if it goes to long it could damage the cv joint, if it isnt already. my question, any idea how much they'll charge me to put a new boot on? how about a new cv joint/drive axle? how hard is it to put a new axle on if i wanted to do it myself, or i should say is there alot that i could screw up?

In my area (NoVA), a CV boot replacement on most cars shouldn't run you more than $200 and a new axle shouldn't be much more than $300. You are right that a broken CV boot can end up damaging the CV joint (what the boot protects) but it isn't a safety issue... at least for a long time.

In most cases, replacing the CV boot (or axle) means taking the lower ball joint out of the spindle and sliding the axle shaft out. Some cars are easier than others. Some cars don't have CV boots that are easy to replace and you'd be better off buying a new (or remanufactured) axle if you were doing the job yourself.


Hope that helps you out.

[twa]

You could also poor boy it and put a quickboot on it

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...R|GRP60007____

down here there are shops that specialize in installing rebuilt ones w/new boots for less than 200 total

It is not difficult unless ya screw something up or don't have the tools.

Murphy's law rules.

[Mark The Homer]

Yeah but those split boot deals don't last. You'll be re-doing it every 3-6 months.