The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

[twa]

Anyone got any ideas?

Make and model?

Ya might check the wiring around the battery itself for a loose ground to the body(blk wire),usually one on the l+r in the front.

I would guess a problem at the instrument cluster wiring connection w/o more info,or the computer module connection if your headlights ect are working fine

[SpringfieldSkins]

I was driving on the highway one day and my dash lights were randomly coming on and going off and my tachometer and temperature gauge needles were dropping and coming back on. I thought it was the alternator, so I took it to a alternator place who tested the battery and alternator. The alternator was good, but the battery had a couple bad cells, so I replaced it. The guy also suggested that I replace the battery ground cable, which I did. Now my dash warning lights, etc just stay on when the car is on. From what I've read online, this seems to be related to a loose or improper ground. The car seems to start and run fine. Anyone got any ideas?

Definitely sounds like a ground problem.

On that note, "Good luck with that."
(translation: huge pain in the ass.)

[JustAfan47]

I was driving on the highway one day and my dash lights were randomly coming on and going off and my tachometer and temperature gauge needles were dropping and coming back on. I thought it was the alternator, so I took it to a alternator place who tested the battery and alternator. The alternator was good, but the battery had a couple bad cells, so I replaced it. The guy also suggested that I replace the battery ground cable, which I did. Now my dash warning lights, etc just stay on when the car is on. From what I've read online, this seems to be related to a loose or improper ground. The car seems to start and run fine. Anyone got any ideas?

Something is up between that alter. Batt. and ground cable. Who installed the Batt. and Cable?.....Also yr, make, model, eng size would help trying to narrow it down. I also want to say it could be the dash but since you replaced the Batt. cable and half the prob. went away your dash just might be fine. The list could go on and on. Now it's really just a series of steps and process of elimination.

[twa]

The list could go on and on. Now it's really just a series of steps and process of elimination.

(translation: huge pain in the ass.)

Word

Getting lucky helps

[JustAfan47]

(translation: huge pain in the ass.)

Word

Getting lucky helps

lol......yes yes and if it's a Euro 4get bout it!!!... Wiring nightmares electrical disasters! I'm still going to a therapist over a VW that haunts me in my sleep!!

[Veretax]

Sounds like they need air bled out or adjusted

Or of course the master cylinder going out
Do they feel spongy when pressure is applied

I wouldn't describe it as a bleed.... The brakes do slow the car with the very light pressure. Just they don't really seem to hammer down unless I go to the floor. TH eold brakes were almost done so... i'm assuming its because they've not worn in yet.

[twa]

I wouldn't describe it as a bleed.... The brakes do slow the car with the very light pressure. Just they don't really seem to hammer down unless I go to the floor. TH eold brakes were almost done so... i'm assuming its because they've not worn in yet.

The bleed is to get air bubbles from the lines,which is usually evident by more brake pressure need to stop and more pedal travel

I'm assuming you have checked the fluid level in the reservoir?

[Veretax]

The bleed is to get air bubbles from the lines,which is usually evident by more brake pressure need to stop and more pedal travel

I'm assuming you have checked the fluid level in the reservoir?

Actually no I haven't checked the reservoir. I'd need to figure out where it is to check it.

[twa]

Actually no I haven't checked the reservoir. I'd need to figure out where it is to check it.

Open the hood,on the drivers side below the windshield,usually a white plastic container,which will say brake fluid generally you can see the level through the container...probably not low if the brake light is not on though

[Prosperity]

got my spark plugs replaced... they were messing up because of "carbon tracking"

I'm glad it wasn't a more expensive problem

[HoustonSkin]

Make and model?

1996 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2L - I changed the battery and cable myself...

[twa]

Did it have a ground lead to the body plus engine?

http://autoforum.classifieds1000.com...hts_on_cluster
Reply #9 Bryan (174.102.131.215) - Wed Apr 28 21:20:55 2010

Problem: Instrument Cluster warning lights and needles "dancing" around.

My solution: make certain you have sufficient grounds: one to the transmission (on a 96) and one to the body.

Original cable is a dual purpose: one lead to tranny, one to battery. In the middle, there is a bracket that mounts to the battery tray. Replaced this with a cable that had a "pig tail" lead at the battery end ($10 replacement as opposed to $50 OEM).

Connected one end to tranny and one to battery. BUT, left the pig tail connect to nothing. At my wits end, I reconnected the original cable along with the bracket to the battery tray.....NO MORE DANCING!!!!

I confirmed this is correct by finding another blog with a picture. The owner had the same issue.

I will be replacing the original with the new cable. I will cut off the plastic end on the pig tail and install a simple eyelet connector from Sears. Then, I will clean a spot to the metal on the body and drive this in with a self-tapping bolt.

[Special K]

How much should a radiator flush cost?

Also, are there any national mechanic sites that rate reputable mechanics? You know, like rate your doctor, but rate your mechanic? I'm trying to find an honest mechanic in Colorado Springs because the people at the Ford Dealership here are ****ing bull**** monkey ass bitches.

[Veretax]

Okay ran my car about 40 miles or so while out yesterday, I think the brakes are fine now. I think maybe i was treating them with such a delicate touch before because I wanted the last bit to last longer or something LOL

[OnlySkins4ever]

Will your mechanics replace a clutch on a 99 cougar for less than $700?

Thanks