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Thread: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

  1. #1426

    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    So, I'm hearing 2 votes against oil in the gas tank, but 2 votes in favor of transmission fluid in the gas tank ? Am I hearing that right ?

  2. #1427
    The Gadget Play
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    not in todays cars
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    Neither in your gas tank.

  4. #1429
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    I have a 2004 Ford Explorer - the battery light keeps blinking. It says in the manual "battery not charging correctlly."

    Would this mean I need a new battery or is it something else, like the alternator - or just maybe the cold? Its been in the teens and 20's for the past week.

    thanks for any advice!
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  5. #1430
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    Quote Originally Posted by USS Redskins View Post
    I have a 2004 Ford Explorer - the battery light keeps blinking. It says in the manual "battery not charging correctlly."

    Would this mean I need a new battery or is it something else, like the alternator - or just maybe the cold? Its been in the teens and 20's for the past week.

    thanks for any advice!
    Is it a steady on/off blink or is it flickering?

    More likely an issue with the charging system. I've seen that several times on older cars with external voltage regulators. The brushes wear out, make poor contact and you get the flickering battery light. Someone else can chime in on that particular car as to the alternator having an internal or external regulator. If external it might be a cheap fix.

    Also could be something like a poor connection or a slipping belt but I think those would be less likely. Not too familiar with that particular car but I imagine it has a serpentine belt, not the old v belts so slipping belt is less likely.
    Last edited by DCsportsfan53; February-5th-2013 at 08:29 AM.

  6. #1431
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    I'd check for corrosion or loose connection on battery posts and wire to alternator, but probably is the regulator acting up(I believe that one is inside the alt)
    The cold could be affecting the spring in a weak belt tensioner(I don't deal with cold much)

    if the tensioner was it ,it should quit when the engine warms up
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  7. #1432
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    Thanks guys - I will check for the loose connections.

    The light is flickering.

    Appreciate the help!
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  8. #1433
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    I'd check connections at the battery. If the cables are secure and there isn't a whole lot of corrosion built up, most likely the alternator will need to be replaced to fix your problem.

  9. #1434

    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    alternator

  10. #1435

    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    Quote Originally Posted by twa View Post
    not in todays cars
    Would a '99 Dodge be a today car, or yesterday car ?

  11. #1436

    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    My mechanic says these things are really urgent

    1) Front crankshaft oil seal ($230 for repair)
    2) Front struts are getting week ($564 for repair)
    3) Tune-up (spark lugs and air filter) $150!

  12. #1437
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    Quote Originally Posted by Malapropismic Depository View Post
    Would a '99 Dodge be a today car, or yesterday car ?
    Today car.

    In general, anything that is 1996 or newer is a modern car. All of those cars are required to be OBD2 compliant. I'd argue that cars even older than that are "today's cars" but if you had to put a definitive date on a modern car, 1996 is about as good as you could get.

    ---------- Post added February-5th-2013 at 06:02 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by skinfan2k View Post
    My mechanic says these things are really urgent

    1) Front crankshaft oil seal ($230 for repair)
    2) Front struts are getting week ($564 for repair)
    3) Tune-up (spark lugs and air filter) $150!
    What kind of car?

    Year, make, model and any additional info as to why those things were suggested would be nice.

  13. #1438
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    I'm not sure I believe in mechanics. It seems the evidence is pretty shaky.
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  14. #1439

    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    Quote Originally Posted by SpringfieldSkins View Post
    Today car.

    In general, anything that is 1996 or newer is a modern car. All of those cars are required to be OBD2 compliant. I'd argue that cars even older than that are "today's cars" but if you had to put a definitive date on a modern car, 1996 is about as good as you could get.

    ---------- Post added February-5th-2013 at 06:02 PM ----------



    What kind of car?

    Year, make, model and any additional info as to why those things were suggested would be nice.
    its a 2002 toyota corolla with 105K. The crankshaft seal was required as he said my oil was leaking. The others were said to be done for "maintenance"

  15. #1440
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    Default Re: The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jumbo View Post
    I'm not sure I believe in mechanics. It seems the evidence is pretty shaky.
    Is that a 1992 model or a 2001?

    ---------- Post added February-5th-2013 at 06:43 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by skinfan2k View Post
    its a 2002 toyota corolla with 105K. The crankshaft seal was required as he said my oil was leaking. The others were said to be done for "maintenance"
    If say that the prices are fairly reasonable depending on what part of Maryland you're in...

    If you can spare the cash it's probably not a bad idea to do it. Fixing the crank seal will stop an oil leak. The other option would be to just monitor the oil level and make sure it doesn't get too low.

    The struts would make for a better ride, as long as they are top quality struts.

    I'd assume that the spark plugs are platinum or iridium and are probably due to be replaced every 100k or so if not sooner. There's no reason to replace them more frequently.

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