The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

[RLeVan]

Chevy imo.


Trailblazer>Grand Cherokee.

Unless you've owned both, it's only opinion.

The comparison is like 50:1. I'm not getting into a this is better than that argument.

If you go for a Jeep, go '06 or later, Quadra Drive 2 (Electronic Limited Slip Diffs/Aussie Lockers, Leather Seats).

Most important thing with anything other than Ford or Chevy is make sure their putting the right fluids in engine/tranny/differential.

Forgot to mention, the comments about standard problems with Chrysler transmissions. My '94 4.0L Aw4 only needed a rear seal replacement ($75). Blanket statements are why people are brand loyal. The Jeep newer trannies are still made by Mercedes.

My '94 4.0L is still running strong and my '06 Overland has no problems as well. Still get the occasional chuckle when I gun it getting on the interstate.

[SpringfieldSkins]

Unless you've owned both, it's only opinion.

The comparison is like 50:1. I'm not getting into a this is better than that argument.

If you go for a Jeep, go '06 or later, Quadra Drive 2 (Electronic Limited Slip Diffs/Aussie Lockers, Leather Seats).

Most important thing with anything other than Ford or Chevy is make sure their putting the right fluids in engine/tranny/differential.

Forgot to mention, the comments about standard problems with Chrysler transmissions. My '94 4.0L Aw4 only needed a rear seal replacement ($75). Blanket statements are why people are brand loyal. The Jeep newer trannies are still made by Mercedes.

My '94 4.0L is still running strong and my '06 Overland has no problems as well. Still get the occasional chuckle when I gun it getting on the interstate.

Of course my statement is only opinion.


Any car will last a very, very long time as long as it's properly maintained. The main problem is that most (and I'd say at least 75%) of the vehicles on the road today are not properly maintained. It's as much my fault, as the service adviser, as it is the owner of the vehicle.

That's one of the problems with the business that I'm in. Most people will jump to the conclusion that the industry as a whole is ripping them off when we tell them that they need more maintenance. For instance, when we say that the differential fluid in a Jeep needs to be replaced every 15K miles, they assume that is too often and just don't do it.

Also, I blame part of the lack of maintenance on the auto industry (Ford, Chrysler, GM, Honda, Toyota, etc) as well. Many have warranties that are 7 years/75K miles, 10 years/100K miles as example. The auto industry advertises their cars as more reliable than ever. They say they don't need as much maintenance. This couldn't be any further from the truth.

[RememberOsaka]

That's one of the problems with the business that I'm in. Most people will jump to the conclusion that the industry as a whole is ripping them off when we tell them that they need more maintenance. For instance, when we say that the differential fluid in a Jeep needs to be replaced every 15K miles, they assume that is too often and just don't do it.

What IS a ripoff is how much the Jeep dealer charges to change the differential fluid when compared to what my local ASE certified shop charges.

[SkinnedAussie]

Yeah, but a Jeep dealer uses genuine Jeep diff fluid, whereas a regular mechanic uses the cheap and nasty stuff.

[HOF44]

I'm looking for a good set of tires. The sizes are;

225/45R18 (Front)
245/45R18 (Rear)

I'm looking for a decent price, all season sport tire. I'll give up a little grip for better tread wear. So far the front runner for me is the Bridgestone Potenza RE 960AS Pole Position.

Seems to be a well reviewed tire. Just checking in here for an expert opinion.

[SpringfieldSkins]

Yeah, but a Jeep dealer uses genuine Jeep diff fluid, whereas a regular mechanic uses the cheap and nasty stuff.

I don't necessarily agree here. We use BG products. Those fluids are the far superior to any OEM fluid in almost any case. Nothing cheap nor nasty about BG fluids.

[SpringfieldSkins]

I'm looking for a good set of tires. The sizes are;

225/45R18 (Front)
245/45R18 (Rear)

I'm looking for a decent price, all season sport tire. I'll give up a little grip for better tread wear. So far the front runner for me is the Bridgestone Potenza RE 960AS Pole Position.

Seems to be a well reviewed tire. Just checking in here for an expert opinion.

I'm not a fan of Bridgestone to be honest. I haven't heard as many bad things about them as I have Goodyear, but I haven't really heard much good either.

There are tires out there that will certainly outperform the RE960 for more money, and also tires that will perform just as well for considerably less.

What you should pay attention to is the UTQGL ratings, not what the manufacturer says as far as their life time. UTQGL (Uniform Tire Quality Guide Line?) gives a much more predictable rating on tires as far as treadwear, traction and temperature. I'm at work and don't have access to anything right now, but I know www.tirerack.com has a very good description of what exactly the UTQGL does on their page.


I'm going to list 4 other tires that I'd install on my car before the Potenzas. I'll also give you their treadwear rating according to the UTQGL.


BF Goodrich G Force KDW2: 300 AA A (treadwear, traction, temperature). This tire will be less than the Potenza by about $30. It's also a summer tire, so you may want to steer clear.

Dunlop Sport Signature: 420 AA A. This tire will be less than the Potenza by about $40.

Kumho Ecsta Sport: 320 AA A. This tire will be less than the Potenza by about $60.

Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus: 500 AA A. This tire will be more than the Potenza by about $15.

Bridgestone Potenza RE960: 400 AA A. Listing this one for comparison.



All of those tires are available in both sizes.

[RememberOsaka]

Yeah, but a Jeep dealer uses genuine Jeep diff fluid, whereas a regular mechanic uses the cheap and nasty stuff.

My mechanic uses the best fluids. Any other reasons for the disparity in price?

[SpringfieldSkins]

My mechanic uses the best fluids. Any other reasons for the disparity in price?

This is a rhetorical question, I assume.


In the case it isn't...

Dealers charge more per hour than private shops. The difference is often in excess of $20 per hour in labor. The OEM fluid from the dealer is often less expensive though. It isn't enough to even up the disparity between parts and labor though.

[SkinnedAussie]

Fair go guys, I was taking the piss, you know, being sarcastic.

[Mickalino]

What do you guys think of these plans that pay for auto repairs ?

It's like auto insurance, except if pays for mechanical repairs, and not for car accidents.

They claim that they cover just about anything, and pay the shop directly and pay 100%, while you don't have to pay a dime for repairs. All you pay is the monthly membership fee.

This sounds too good to be true.

Are any of these companies legit ?

[twa]

Are any of these companies legit ?

I guess... some pay me,which is the only part I care about.

[H-O-G]

What do you guys think of these plans that pay for auto repairs ?

It's like auto insurance, except if pays for mechanical repairs, and not for car accidents.

They claim that they cover just about anything, and pay the shop directly and pay 100%, while you don't have to pay a dime for repairs. All you pay is the monthly membership fee.

This sounds too good to be true.

Are any of these companies legit ?

I used StopRepairBills.com, once you call, the operator pressures you to sign up and makes a lot of promises and tries to get you to put a down payment on the plan. Whatever site you were going to use, google reviews for them. I had my plan on my car for a month and read enough reviews that I didnt feel good about them being there for me when I needed a big repair so I cancelled it.

[Mickalino]

I guess... some pay me,which is the only part I care about.

I guess that's a good sign, if you're getting paid.

I used StopRepairBills.com, once you call, the operator pressures you to sign up and makes a lot of promises and tries to get you to put a down payment on the plan. Whatever site you were going to use, google reviews for them. I had my plan on my car for a month and read enough reviews that I didnt feel good about them being there for me when I needed a big repair so I cancelled it.

I used to go by internet reviews, as my first source for a product or service I was contemplating.

Then I came to the conclusion, that most internet reviews are bogus.
That most of the positive reviews about a company are posted by individuals who work for that company - and most of the negative reviews are posted by people who work for their competition.

To find an absolute neutral source, or an independent 3rd party, is the only way to be sure.

[SpringfieldSkins]

What do you guys think of these plans that pay for auto repairs ?

It's like auto insurance, except if pays for mechanical repairs, and not for car accidents.

They claim that they cover just about anything, and pay the shop directly and pay 100%, while you don't have to pay a dime for repairs. All you pay is the monthly membership fee.

This sounds too good to be true.

Are any of these companies legit ?

I don't like them and my opinion of them is quickly declining. I used to like "warranty companies" a few years ago. Over the last couple of years they have gone downhill fast.

They write their policies so that they will have to cover the least amount possible. They make it seem like you are getting a really good deal and a lot is covered. Hell, a lot is usually covered. The problem is, they don't cover the stuff that breaks.

Lately, I've been calling more and more customers to tell them that their repairs aren't covered by their warranty company.



Now, a typical repair estimate that I fill out when I have a customer that has a warranty agreement...

The customer will come in with a symptom. The technician will hand me the work order and I'll work up an estimate for the warranty company. Then, I call the company.

- Most of them (if not all now) only pay $80 per hour for labor. We charge $89.32 per hour for labor at my shop, most other shops in my area are much higher. The remainder gets passed on to the customer.

- Most of them (if not all now) will not pay full list price for parts. You guessed it, the remainder gets passed on to the customer.

- None of them pay sales tax (at least in VA). Damn right the customer is paying sales tax.

- None pay shop supplies. Shop supplied are (in simplistic terms) random charges for disposal of hazardous materials, small things like cleaning chemicals, cleaning supplies, taxes on operating a business that deals with hazardous materials, EPA (or local) charges for operating such a business, nut, bolts, you get the impression. Yep, passed on to the customer.


So... this ticket that you have in the shop. Say it's $1000 for the sake of argument. Say your deductible is $100. You'd probably pay something like $300-$400 total out of that bill. All because this warranty company wont pay these things.



In summary. You may, in certain circumstances, save a little bit of money. You probably won't recoup your investment into such a "warranty company" though. You'll come up on the short end of the stick. They are dirty and getting more dirty by the day.