The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread (merged)

[chipwhich]

In reality though, cars are only as reliable as the people who drive and maintain them. That's the god honest truth. You can get a Kia to last to 200K if you take care of it properly and you can run down a Honda in under 100K if you treat it like your red-headed step child.

If I put my Honda with 100K miles on it up for sale, people will WANT to buy it, and people will pay good money to buy it.

If I put an american car up for sale with 100K miles, people think the vehicle is at the end of it's useful life and it's value will be minimal.

I am not the best at consitantly changing oil on my hondas. The last two I owned went over 150K. My current one is over 100K....and it's like new.

My Jeep Grand Cherokee was a junk heap prior to hitting 60K

[Koolblue13]

If I put my Honda with 100K miles on it up for sale, people will WANT to buy it, and people will pay good money to buy it.

If I put an american car up for sale with 100K miles, people think the vehicle is at the end of it's useful life and it's value will be minimal.

I am not the best at consitantly changing oil on my hondas. The last two I owned went over 150K. My current one is over 100K....and it's like new.

My Jeep Grand Cherokee was a junk heap prior to hitting 60K

Perception is reality, right?

People also think Idol is the greatest show ever on t.v.

(Cherokees are great, as long as they don't have the Quadra junk box)

[sideshow24]

Also curious if the key is original or one that had to get made at some point. Sometimes a locksmith doesn't do a good job and that key that never seemed to work just right wears out the lock cylinder.

I have one original and one that was made for me at the dealership. Used some sort of primitive hand tool to carve the key instead of grinding. I use the original mostly and the other when I'm too lazy to look for my my keyring.

I've ran into that before, the locksmith doesn't use the right blank (uncut key) or just cuts the key poorly. Usually when that happens though, it's a problem the first time you try and put it into the ignition. I could see a key that is just slightly off causing problems in the long term.

It worked from the start. I think I remember it being a little bumpy the first few insertions so you may be onto something. WD-40 didn't work so I guess I start investigating a replacement.

[SpringfieldSkins]

It worked from the start. I think I remember it being a little bumpy the first few insertions so you may be onto something. WD-40 didn't work so I guess I start investigating a replacement.

Ignition locks aren't terribly expensive or too hard to replace either. I would imagine it would cost you somewhere between $200-300 depending on what kind of car you own.

Sometimes you'll have to use a different key for the ignition than the one for the doors if they can't get the ignition key to match the door key.

Good luck though, it shouldn't be super painfull.

[BayouBrave86]

Alright so I just noticed one of the front "side" lights is out in my Jeep. How do I go about replacing that? I didn't see any screws and if I got a mechanic to replace the bulb for me how much would it cost? I have to take my Jeep in soon to get the hood cable fixed anyway, but I'm thinking I can do the side light by myself. How much does a light cost?

[DCsportsfan53]

There is nothing wrong with the new Fords guys.

Now your opinion might not be high of them, but don't pretend like they're inferior quality.

I've said it before on the boards, and feel free to take it with a grain of salt, but my Father in law manages a large automation consulting firm - they basically design the equipment that makes things. Most of their business is within the automotive industry. Nobody in the company will touch a GM, fwiw. Of course, most of them drive imports, including my father in law

I drive a GM for my company car. Quite frankly, it's a big piece of ****. It doesn't even have 60k on it yet and I can't wait to get rid of it. So opinions are like *******s, we all have them

...

Here is my problem with American cars. They don't offer you nearly the reliability of a Japanese car. They don't offer you nearly the comfort or driving experience of a German car. They're mediocre and blah at everything. It's like a football team that's 7-9 every year.

How do you define quality? The Germans have known for years, "quality" is in the eye of the beholder. That explains how they can export pieces of **** that American consumers fawn over because they're stylish and the fit and finish is nice... and they handle well and have great drivetrains. Only a German Car owner will rant and rave about how great their car is even though it is constantly in the shop.

I'm not going to lie, you're not far from the truth. It's almost like playing russian roulette......electrical problems style. I will say this though, the engineering in the drivetrains and the chassis' is superior. Generally speaking I've found that people who really stay on top of keeping a German car running right get good returns. Neglect them and they will exact revenge. But there's no question it'll likely be an overall more expensive car to own and maintain than either of the other two. The MK5 VWs have been excellent, though. Much better cars these days, they've climbed dramatically in the reliability ratings the last several years, and from a "behind the wheel" standpoint, the best to drive and closest to the original idea since the first Rabbits.

Bottom line, Japanese and German cars give you some form of excellence to hang your hat on, a reason to have the car based on merit that is lacking almost wholesale in American cars, save for a few models (like a Vette). They are not excellent at anything. They're not going to be the cheapest to own, get the best fuel mileage or give you an amazing driving experience. They'll be a few years behind in technology and generally unimpressive in most ways. I definitely agree that buying American is a good thing but, IMHO, they've still gotta ****ing earn it by making a car that stands up to the competition.

[zoony]

Here is my problem with American cars. They don't offer you nearly the reliability of a Japanese car. They don't offer you nearly the comfort or driving experience of a German car. They're mediocre and blah at everything. It's like a football team that's 7-9 every year.

You're exactly right.

I'm not going to lie, you're not far from the truth. It's almost like playing russian roulette......electrical problems style. I will say this though, the engineering in the drivetrains and the chassis' is superior. Generally speaking I've found that people who really stay on top of keeping a German car running right get good returns. Neglect them and they will exact revenge.

No argument from me whatsoever. Germany has been exporting outstanding drivetrains and suspensions for years. That's how the German Industry has defined quality... and they've been very successful with it.

But quality and reliability shouldn't be confused. One is subjective, one isn't

[SpringfieldSkins]

Alright so I just noticed one of the front "side" lights is out in my Jeep. How do I go about replacing that? I didn't see any screws and if I got a mechanic to replace the bulb for me how much would it cost? I have to take my Jeep in soon to get the hood cable fixed anyway, but I'm thinking I can do the side light by myself. How much does a light cost?

What year and model of Jeep is it? I don't you recall you ever saying. Knowing you have a hood release cable problem, I would figure it's a Cherokee or Grand Cherokee. If so, what year is it?

Sometimes you have to access the bulb from under the vehicle. Sometimes there is a "torx" screw holding the lense in in between the headlight and side marker light. Elaborate a little more and I may be able to help you. Bulbs are usually very simple to replace.

At my shop, we don't charge to replace bulbs... unless you own the notorious New Beetle. Those headlight bulbs are the hugest pain in the ass to replace. Only in Germany could they design a car so hard to replace a headlight bulb.

[SpringfieldSkins]

I meant the plugs just loosen up on occasion. I hear tapping and then pop, plugs out. It happened on my old Ford as well.

I've never seen this happen. I'll ask around up at work, but as I recall, I don't remember this ever happening. Has to be damn annoying though.

UPDATE:

I haven't seen this happen, or so I can recall. I asked one of my technicians about this yesterday. This has been known to happen on the Ford F Series trucks with the 4.6L (I believe). The plugs blow out, taking the threads with them. Apparently this happens so much, they make a repair kit for it. Basically at heli coil kit, just as you described.

Just figured I'd give you an update since I had asked around.

[Koolblue13]

UPDATE:

I haven't seen this happen, or so I can recall. I asked one of my technicians about this yesterday. This has been known to happen on the Ford F Series trucks with the 4.6L (I believe). The plugs blow out, taking the threads with them. Apparently this happens so much, they make a repair kit for it. Basically at heli coil kit, just as you described.

Just figured I'd give you an update since I had asked around.

Thanks for the update. Unfortunitely, I know all about the kit. $625 from Snappy.

Mostly a 5.4l problem, but there in all the Ford trucks.

Aluminum heads and 3 threads for the plug, not so much like an iron head with 7 threads. Good work Ford, that'll hold. I wonder what they saved on that. It's also a wear item and never been recalled.

[dwbiggs]

I just paid 650.00 to have a new alternator and battery installed. How big of a sucker am I?

98 ford exploder..

Well seeing that an alternator costs at most 200.00 (ordered online) and a battery can be had for 50.00-70.00 I would say you could have saved a bunch if you and/or a friend made the repairs...it ain't that hard to do.

I got a quote from a shop for replacing brakes and rotors on my Jeep Liberty. 950.00 parts and labor. I went online and ordered everything I need and did the whole job for 300.00...took maybe 2 hours.

[SpringfieldSkins]

Well seeing that an alternator costs at most 200.00 (ordered online) and a battery can be had for 50.00-70.00 I would say you could have saved a bunch if you and/or a friend made the repairs...it ain't that hard to do.

I got a quote from a shop for replacing brakes and rotors on my Jeep Liberty. 950.00 parts and labor. I went online and ordered everything I need and did the whole job for 300.00...took maybe 2 hours.

I won't deny that people can do work for cheaper than at a repair station. You can do anything cheaper when you buy things online. The problem I see here is this. If you have 1 car and only 1 car, you can't affort to wait 2 days (at best) for this part to come in. If you have a job, you need to be at work. It's not a viable excuse to miss work because you have to wait a week for your part to arrive. That is where repair stations come into play. We (as an industry) provide speedy and professional service, of course there is a cost to that.

If you are a good do it yourselfer, don't have an immediate need for the car you are repairing, and don't mind performing the repair again if you make a mistake or get a defective part, it's a good idea to fix your cars yourselves. You will end up saving a bunch of money. Otherwise, you should take your car to the professionals.

As far as brakes. I wouldn't skimp on the price. I would buy original equipment (if Japanese or European) or top quality ceramic (if American). You'll save yourself a lot of embarrasment when your brakes start squeaking for no apparent reason.

[stoshuaj]

half-axle and wheel bearing in my son's piece o'crap mobile tomorrow.

wish me luck......

[Buford T. Justice]

Does a light screeching noise that goes away when braking means its time for new pads?

[70-chip]

I'm assuming that you are talking about the fan in the car, the blower that blows head and AC on you. It kind of sounds like the fan may be locking up and drawing on the battery causing the engine to stumble because the battery power is not constant.

I doubt it has anything to do with your last oil change. I would recommed you take it into a shop because I don't really have an answer for you insofar as a common problem I see. I could be completely wrong about my thoughts, but if it's stalling, you should probably address that.

Pre 1996 (Pre OBD 2 or On Board Diagnostics 2) vehicles are very finicky with their check engine lights. They are not the most reliable when it comes to thinking you have a "real" problem with the car. Just a side note.

I'm a parts manager at a Subaru dealer. Sounds like the compresser may be kicking on and drawing the idle down. You may have an idle air control valve issue. Have someone check out the IAC valve.